Andrew Coppolino: Apple crops promising strong, tasty harvest

For several crops in southwestern Ontario, the season got off to a slow start, but there will be a strong apple harvest, according to local growerssuch asJay Howell and Tom Chudleigh.

"We were two weeks behind but will have a good crop at least until Thanksgiving and probably the end of October," according to Howell, of Brantview Apples in St. George, Ont.

Howell has been growing apples for four decades on about 30 acres. His orchard has been producing apples for nearly 200 years.

At Chudleigh's near Milton, you-pick is a popular activity at this time of the year, and the eating apples are in good shape, according to the farmer.

"We have 58 acres of orchard in total," says Tom Chudleigh. "Customers can pick from among 23 varieties in sequence as they ripen."

'Two seasons' of apples

While the popular McIntosh(reputedly found by John McIntoshon his Upper-Canadafarm in South Dundasin 1811) has been around for over two centuries, it has been surpassed in popularity by newer varieties like Honeycrisp and Ambrosia.

Those apples took decades to develop as breeders research and experiment with varieties that give consumers the crisp and sweet qualities modern shoppers want.

The Honeycrisp hugely popular over the last several years actually got its start a couple decades ago. Its faint honey flavour and a large cell structure give it superlative crunch and flavour making it a go-to for apple lovers.

A relatively new apple variety is the Crimson Crisp, a cultivar that was developed to resist some apple diseases.

"It is a new apple that we are planting extensively and are finding to be very popular right now. But they won't be ready until mid-October," says Steve Martin of Martin's Family Fruit Farm in Waterloo.

Chudleigh's grows both Creston and Silken, two newer varieties from British Columbia's Okanagan Valley.

"The Silken will finish this weekend. The Creston won't be ready until Thanksgiving," Chudleigh says.

Ultimately, it comes down to the Honeycrisp, says Howell.

"There's a joke that there aretwo apple seasons:Regular apple season and Honeycrisp season."

'Eye to the sky' you-pick trick

Within a relatively short drive, there are a few you-pick apple orchards, and most have on-farm stores that sell a variety of apple products, such as Chudleigh's and Brantview Farms.

When visiting an apple farm, there will be rules for picking apples, so respect the property and the crop. Some venues charge by weight or simply filling up a bag. Some transport you to the orchard on a wagon.

The picking technique, according to Chudleigh's, is "turn the eye to the sky" (the bottom of the apple) and gently twist to protect the tree so it can continue to produce fruit.

Orchard Home Farm, also in St. George, offers both picked and you-pick apples as well as crab apples (an integral part of apple tree pollination) if you want to make crab apple jelly.

Heading toward St. Thomas, Apple Land Station has you-pick and a farm store as well.

While they are not a you-pick venue, Martin's has a wide variety of apples grown in the orchards right outside the store. Herrle's Country Farm Market, Barrie's Asparagus and Oakridge Acres all sell local apples.

In downtown Kitchener, Legacy Greens sells apples such as Paula Red, Ginger Gold and St. Lawrence from Maple Crisp Orchard near Elmira.

Apple beverages,garnishes

K-W Cider owner Michael Kramar says the next few weeks will be the best time for fresh "hard" cider (cider that contains alcohol,compared to the sweet or "soft" cider you buy from grocery store refrigerators).

"Because this is the time of the year that apples are harvested, the first 2019 ciders will be ready by October and at their freshest," Kramar says.

Their flagship Sparkling Dry cider in cans recently launched at major LCBO outlets.

Arabella Park in Kitchener carries several ciders including those from West Avenuein Flamboroughand Revel in Guelph, according to cellarman Ben Metcalf.

The range of flavour profiles run from licorice and fennel to plums and citrus, but hurry because Metcalf says supplies don't last long.

"There are a few unique things in the fridge right now, but with our heavily rotational nature there's no guarantee it'll be available very long," Metcalf says.

As for cocktail bars, Sugar Run and TWH Social, both in Kitchener, are serving apple drinks. At TWH social it's the "Hold the Appleause" cocktail with rum, Calvados the potent Normandyspirit made from apples and an apple-Riesling reduction.

Sugar Run is featuring a bright and sparkling apple cider mimosa for brunch.

• More food columns from Andrew Coppolino

In New Hamburg, Jake and Humphreys Bistro is taking advantage of the bounty of the local harvest to both preserve apples by pickling them and serving freshly cooked apples.

"I poach crabapples gently in sweetened, spiced vinegar and use them on apt. We also might add sauted Empires or Northern Spy apples to a pork or game main course," says chef and co-owner Janet Duncan.

Pick(le) an apple

The preserving method, similar to Duncan's, can be quick and easy, so grab your favourite fresh apple and make a quick pickle of it.

Recipe

• Stuff a large Mason jar with apple slices (not too thin).In a pot, combine:
• 1 cups of cider vinegar.
• cup of water.
• cup lightly packed brown sugar, a cinnamon stick, two cloves, a few dry mustard seeds if you have them, a couple of slices of ginger and any other autumnal spices like cardamom that you like.
• Bring to a simmer.
• Pour the concoction into the Mason jar to cover the apples.
• Seal and store in the fridge.