Dehcho leaders say pandemic intensifies food insecurity, but inspires solutions

As countries across the globe grapple with stressed food supply chains due to COVID-19-related shut-downs, some communities in the Northwest Territories are seeing potential for more local food production.

Communities like Fort Simpson, N.W.T., are re-imagining how they source valuable goods. Local leaders argue new found stressors, which build upon previous concerns over availability and high costs, make a case for growing and harvesting locally sourced foods.

Well before the pandemic hit, Fort Simpson faced high costs and the limited availability of goods.

While the community is connected to the Mackenzie Valley Highway, by ice road in the winter and ferry service in the summer, it encounters disruptions in the fall and spring when the state of the Liard River isolates it from roadways. During these periods, food and other products must be flown over the river.

Being removed from road access "means people here in Fort Simpson have to make a lot more effort to get the things that they need," said Fort Simpson mayor Sean Whelly.

Whelly said that valuable household cleaning supplies, like bleach, have been under-supplied or not available during the pandemic.

Jason Evoy, the manager of Fort Simpson's Northern store, said that "the only problem we've had [with supply chains] is if specific vendors have had a problem."

But bleach is a controlled substance, which creates seasonal challenges for resupply because it cannot be flown over the river. The community still faces shortages, even though they are now reconnected with the highway.

Many residents in the region opt to travel to areas where costs are lower and availability is higher, like Yellowknife, Hay River or Edmonton. However, COVID-19-related restrictions have complicated people's access services in these areas.

Jean Marie River does not have a store and residents mainly rely on neighbouring communities to get what they need. Until recently, many community members faced barriers getting out of town to gather supplies due to public health orders.

"Half of our population does not have vehicles," said Misty Ireland, Jean Marie River's senior administrative officer, noting that many residents rely on rides from others to get supplies.

She said during the territory's ban on gatherings, people were not allowed to share vehicles with anyone from outside of their household. Eventually, they became eligible for an exemption from the government and adopted safety measures.

More focus on growing own food

"This virus brings out a lot of concern for people about the availability of food and the people's ability to access it," said Gerald Antoine, the Chief of Liidlii Kue First Nation.

"Our local Dene oral history shared that there were times of hunger, hardship so this food security issue is something that isn't new for us," he said.

"[The pandemic] really challenges people to think about how they can be able to do those things ... healthy family, healthy lifestyle, and putting food on the table."

Mayor Whelly said that "from a community planning point of view, I think there will be more focus on growing our own food."

"It just shows you the longer this [N.W.T.] border is closed, the more self-reliant we will have to be."

Fort Simpson was home to an agricultural experiment that lasted from the early 1940s until 1968. Many elders and community members worked on the farm. Antoine said the experiment emphasized local potential and showed the soil's fertility.

Farming, hunting key to local sustainability

Today, as the pandemic reinforces the need for a stable food supply, the now-defunct farm serves as inspiration for youth in the community.

Liidlii Kue Regional High School is working to improve the community's capacity to grow its own food. The school is currently working on a greenhouse, which will help youth in Fort Simpson learn gardening and cultivation skills.

The greenhouse is intended "to relieve and establish a better food supply in Fort Simpson, but all starting with the education and the hands on stuff with the students," said Whelly.

"The whole idea is you're doing something greener because you're not transporting food thousands of miles from Florida or whatever it may be, because you're growing it here."

Antoine also said the community can draw lessons from traditional knowledge, including from hunting and harvesting.

"We need to be mindful of the season patterns and look at how we'll be able to look after our family, and also work together as a family to put food on the table."

The pandemic has seen more people going on the land and providing for their family, as well as the community, he said.

"COVID-19 provides a moment of opportunity to reconnect and really reflect on the things that are essentially important to us" said Antoine.

"To really embrace it and look at how we could be able to really grow and move forward in a good way, and to be mindful at the same time."