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'I provide a new canvas': Haute couture meets Haida culture in Yukon hat-making workshop

A group of Yukon First Nation women are connecting through traditional crafts as they participate in a week-long hat making workshop run by Haida designer Dorothy Grant.

Haida designer Dorothy Grant taught nine Yukon women her techniques

Sissi De Flaviis CBC News Posted: Jul 26, 2022 7:00 AM EDT | Last Updated: July 26, 2022

Dorothy Grant and Shirley Dawson posing with their traditional hats — The renowned Haida fashion designer, Dorothy Grant, ran a traditional hat-making workshop at the Kwanlin Dun Cultural Centre from Jul 20-25. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

Reconnecting with culture and tradition looks different for everyone.For Dorothy Grant, it'sabout merging traditional Haida craft practices with innovative fashion techniques.

"Tradition versus innovation is something that I have been practising and doing for the past 40 years of my artistic life," said the internationally renowned Haida fashion designer.

Grant, who is member of the Raven Clan of Kaigani Haida, was the first fashion designer to combine haute couture with her Haida culture.

Dorothy Grant posing for a photo — Grant is a member of the Raven Clan of Kaigani Haida. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

Over the last week, she facilitated a traditional hat-making workshop at the Kwanlin Dn Cultural Centre in Whitehorse, where nine Yukon First Nations women learned Grant's unique techniques.

"I see these ladies are just hungry for something new. It's like I provide a new canvas for them to create their own artwork on it," said Grant.

Sewing a hat — Each participant made their own hat from start to finish, including shaping the fabric into the traditional hat shape, sewing borders, and designing, cutting and adding the decorations. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

The five-day workshop was based on the traditional Haida painted basketry hat from the northwest coast tribes. Although the shape is traditional, the teaching included a few of Grant's personal fashion secrets and new techniques, she said.

"It's quite a process, but it's almost healing because you can literally finish a hat in [a few] days," she said.

"Also just being able to build something with your own two hands from start to finish is a really great feeling. I think that's what I'm teaching these ladies, that they have the ability to do that."

Thelma Sawyer sewing a colourful hat brim. — Thelma Sawyer, member of the Ta'an Kwach'an Council, sewing the colourful hat brim. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

Grant also creating traditional products can be healing, for people processing issues and traumas experienced as Indigenous people.

"We all come from a similar place and maybe upbringings," said Grant when talking about the workshop's participants. "We've all had issues and traumas. I think that if you can put all of that into some creative process like this, it helps with dealing with all of thosethings."

Dorothy Grant overseeing a workshop participant — 'It's an honour to pass on my skills, as a now milliner, to these ladies because it's like they're so hungry for something new. And this is very innovative, but it's based on tradition,' said Grant. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

The participants were sponsored by their respective communities: Kwanlin Dn First Nation, Ta'an Kwach'anCouncil and Gwichin.

sewing a killer wale — Each hat is meant to be unique to the artist. That's why Shirley Dawson sewed a crest to commemorate her grandfather's clan, a killer whale. 'It's part of my clan. It's part of who I am,' she said. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

Drawing a feather — Elizabeth Moses chose to include a feather design because of a vision. 'In my vision, I had gone up the mountain. At the top, my grandfather touched my face with a feather,' she explained. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

two participants helping each other at the hat making workshop — Dawson said the environment at the workshop was 'very positive and very supportive' to the point participants were sharing materials and helping each other throughout the process. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

Hat and regalia combination — Grant has made a name for herself in the fashion industry internationally for her infusion between innovation and traditional designs as shown in this traditional hat and regalia set. 'Nobody is bigger or better. I am the same. I come from humble beginnings in Alaska,' said the artist. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

lady cutting a tensil — Tania Pope, from Ta'an Kwach'anCouncil, designing a white-and-red butterfly for her black felt hat. (Sissi De Flaviis)

posing for a photo — Moses, fourth to the right, said this was a lifetime opportunity. Not only was this her first time learning and making a hat, it also happened by coincidence. Moses was visiting the Centre when saw the group at the artists' studio. Thankfully there was one spot available and she was able to join thanks to her Gwich'in First Nation sponsoring her. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

Posing the finished hats after the workshop — The week-long workshop ended on Monday July 25, a day before previously anticipated. The nine participants and Grant celebrated with a short photoshoot session outside of the Kwanlin Dn Cultural Centre. (Sissi De Flaviis/CBC)

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